Tag Archives: Juba
A few months ago, the Ministry of Culture staff, with Dan and me from the RVI, moved the final load of loose paper from the USAID tent where they’d been housed since 2006, their first post-war home. These were the last of the damaged pages from burst files, which are now waiting for someone who enjoys serious puzzles.
Three weeks ago, when passing, I saw that we were right to get out of the tent. Temporary in the Juba climate really does mean temporary.
I’ve had a bit too much of politics at close hand this week, so here’s an update on my ongoing beautification in Juba. Now I’m back in the capital, there’s no excuse not to go to my favourite nail artist, Joseph, in Souk Libya (next to the pharmacy in the centre). Joseph has upgraded his stool-and-basket to a full on nail bar!
For a while, I’ve kept a running note on my phone of my favourite bus slogans, which are cut-out decals on the back of “taxis”, the private mini-van bus services in Juba. These are my favourites so far this year – more to come. Obviously the all-time favourite is the bus labelled “Where does Abyei belong?”, which has been in service since at least 2011.
- No fear – attack like a lion
- Serving my customer is my pleasure
- Big man
- Rich also cry
- Get little keep going
- No appeal
- Time keeper
- Gentel man
- Injury time
- No pain no gain (also see: “no gain no pain”, and “no gain without pain”).
Money makes theWorld dance.Dance for youA big dance aGreat waltzMoney breaks mountaindown and irrigated deserts.Money makes u able toSee well & show u the wayBut my friend toldMe that the personWho loves youBecause you haveMoney, that personWill bite you whenYou have no money.Money make greatFools wise.Money is love.When you have a lotsOf money there reToo many womanWho love you.When you’re poorThere’s hardlyAnyone to love u.Money can buyA human being!Oh money, moneyHundreds of notesThousands of dollars &Pound make u enjoy anEarthly paradise butRemember money kill!
I’ve just moved back to Juba, after a few weeks’ break in the UK, and I’m realising I know very little about this town other than that I can get a $4 sticky toffee pudding for breakfast.
That’s maybe an exaggeration. But in the process of starting up interviews again with returned Khartoum residents around Juba, I’m finding whole new neighbourhoods (and local names) I’ve never heard of before. So now I’m working on building a map of Juba that’s becoming similar to my now-ragged map of Khartoum – complete with arrows, notes and scribbled lines.
I licenced my bike! After making “friends” with a lot of traffic police. No fines, just lots of awkward chat. Which was almost as bad, sometimes, but many of them were pretty happy just to have a chat to a white woman clearly learning how to work gears with her foot.
I’m re-starting my PhD properly on Thursday, after six months of working on my Arabic, which is still only shweya, and on the South Sudan National Archives, which is also shweya, although a little less of a mushkila than when I arrived. I’m leaving Juba for Aweil – after my previous trip, I think it’s a good enough place to start work – on Thursday, with no real fixed plan after that.
A gold version of the ‘Juba French,’ invented by Joseph, nail artist in Souk Libya, Juba, South Sudan.